[Harc] Thank You Tunes

[delfreret]

I think the first thing to do is decide what bands and modes you want to work, then you will know what antennas you want. Biggest factor is space and support systems. 2 or 3 dipoles can hang together on one support system. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Matthew McClain via Harc <harc at reflector.humboldt-arc.org> Date: 3/23/24  10:51  (GMT-08:00) To: "Andrius D. Ilgūnas" <andrius at ilgunas.net> Cc: HARC <harc at reflector.humboldt-arc.org> Subject: Re: [Harc] Thank You Tunes Something to keep in mind is that though you can tune a non-resonent antenna it doesn't mean that it will actually get out or receive well, in fact think of a 50 ohm dummy load, it's a perfect match to the radio but no signals are going to get in or out of it, and a wire can be a dummy load just as easily as a dummy load can be a dummy load On Sat, Mar 23, 2024, 8:55 AM Andrius D. Ilgūnas via Harc <harc at reflector.humboldt-arc.org> wrote:THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH to all who have responded to my question about an antenna!My brain bucket overfloweth.I think that this is what I've learned far:1. There are resonant, and non-resonant antennas. Generally, resonant ones are tuned to work on one frequency, whereas non-resonant ones aren't tuned, and thus require a tuner.  Generally.2.  Perhaps the most recommended was an inverted V or a random/long wire antenna. The inverted V is a kind of dipole, but because it's a V, it becomes more omnidirectional.2.a  A "random wire" and a "long wire" is the same thing.3. End-fed needs a tuner and although easier to set up, are deaf on several bands.4. The higher, the better; at least 35' above the ground.5. Antenna traps are old-school, and were a way to make antennas appear shorter electrically on higher frequencies.  These days, multi-band antennas use magic dust instead of traps.6. Ladder-line can be used instead of a coax cable between the transceiver and antenna. Because it's balanced, where a coax is not, it can handle higher SWR and doesn't heat up a much.7. Tuner don't actually tune an antenna. Rather, they match the impedance on the cable to reduce the SWR and get more of the energy into/out of the antenna. I understand that none of these are RULES, but rather, they are generalities, aka "rules of thumb" and exceptions and caveats can be found for each. However, is my understanding correct? <=========If I'm right about all of the points above, then my gray matter guides me to thinking that I want a non-resonant antenna with a tuner.  Probably an inverted V or a doublet, as Jaye recommended.What should I look for in a tuner? <========Or should I finalize on an antenna type/configuration first and then go looking for an "appropriate" tuner?  <========And before I forget, how much effort have you put into lighting "protection"? I get that nothing would protect from a direct strike, and don't operate equipment when I hear thunder.  And I also understand that those "lightning arrestors" on Amazon aren't much more than surge protectors. Some folks just put in a grounding rod (don't daisy-chain chassises!), while others go all-out with installing radials to grounding rods and have large plates to encourage lighting to go elsewhere, etc.Given that we get about 3-5 strikes each winter around here, how much effort have YOU put in protecting your base station from strikes?   <========Finally, I am amazed at all the excellent advice I've been generously given from you all!  It's as if I tripped into Elmer City here!! Thank you!!! I PROMISE THAT I'LL GET LESS NEEDY OVER TIME!!--AndriusTo know recursion, you must first know recursion.
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